Frequently Asked Questions

• Asphalt shingles (the most common in Florida) average $4–$6 per sq ft, so a 2,000 sq ft home runs about $8,000–$12,000 for materials and labor.
• Metal roofing typically costs $6.50–$13 per sq ft (about $13,000–$26,000 total).
• Tile (concrete or clay) often runs $8–$20 per sq ft (roughly $16,000–$40,000) due to higher material weight and installation complexity.
• Overall replacement (including tear-off/disposal) averages $11,000–$30,000, with most Florida homeowners spending around $15,000 for a ~1,700–2,000 sq ft roof.

• Architectural asphalt shingles: 15–25 years (UV exposure and humidity can shorten life).
• Three-tab shingles: 10–15 years in high-sun areas before granule loss accelerates.
• Metal roofs: 40–70 years (excellent wind resistance).
• Concrete/clay tile: 50+ years but require strong framing for Florida’s wind loads.

• Granule loss in gutters from UV-worn shingles
• Algae or mold streaks (more common in humid climates)
• Curling, cracking, or missing shingles after storms
• Interior stains following heavy rains or tropical downpours
• Daylight through the attic or sagging roof deck

If you spot any of these, call for a free inspection—Florida’s frequent storms can turn small leaks into big problems fast.

• Asphalt shingles: Economical, many colors, but shorter lifespan under constant sun.
• Metal roofing: Reflects heat, resists hurricane-force winds, low maintenance.
• Concrete/clay tile: Superior longevity, fire-proof and hail-resistant, but higher upfront cost and structural requirements.
• Cool-roof coatings or light-colored shingles: Can lower A/C bills by reflecting solar heat.

We’ll assess your home’s pitch, local wind zone, HOA rules, and energy goals to recommend the perfect system.

• Typical 1,500–2,000 sq ft shingle roof: 1–3 days (weather permitting)
• Metal or tile roofs: 3–5 days due to heavier materials and more complex flashing

We’ll provide a clear start-to-finish timeline based on your roof’s size, complexity, and Florida’s unpredictable shower schedule.

• Florida building code allows only one overlay on asphalt shingles, but we strongly recommend a full tear-off:
• Prevents hidden deck damage from trapped moisture (critical in humid climates)
• Ensures hurricane-code compliance with proper underlayment and fastening

We’ll inspect your decking and underlayment and advise whether an overlay is safe or if a tear-off is best.

• Licensed & insured in your county (e.g., FL State Certified CCC1325950)
• Florida Building Code compliance and high-wind-zone experience
• Manufacturer certifications (GAF, CertainTeed, TAMKO) for extended warranties
• Local reviews and references—ask for jobs in your city (Tampa, Orlando, Jacksonville, etc.)

We carry full licensure, hurricane-strap expertise, and A+ BBB ratings to give you confidence on every project.

• Annual inspections—especially after hurricane season
• Keep gutters clear of palm fronds and blockages
• Seal penetrations (vents, skylights) with Florida-rated flashing and sealants
• Replace damaged shingles and flashings promptly to avoid moisture ingress

Ask about our maintenance plans designed for Florida’s heavy-rain and hurricane-risk environment.

• Shingle/tile condition and granule loss
• Underlayment integrity (critical in humid climates)
• Flashing & seal around penetrations (meeting FBC high-wind specs)
• Proper fastening (nail pattern and ring-shank nails per hurricane code)
• Gutter/downspout performance to channel heavy rains away from your roof and foundation

We’ll deliver a detailed report with photos and spot any FBC compliance issues before they become insurance headaches.

• Most policies cover sudden damage (hail, wind) but not wear-and-tear or age.
• Document storm damage with photos/dates, and get a licensed estimate for your claim.
• We’ll work directly with insurers, provide the necessary hurricane-code certification, and help streamline your payout.

Key steps:

• 1. Remove old roofing and inspect deck
• 2. Apply underlayment and drip-edge flashing
• 3. Align and fasten metal panels per manufacturer specs
• 4. Seal seams and install ridge cap and flashings

• 1. Remove old shingles and debris; inspect deck
• 2. Install drip-edge and ice-and-water barrier
• 3. Lay roofing felt (underlayment) tightly
• 4. Place starter strip along eaves/rakes
• 5. Nail shingles in staggered courses, trimming at hips/valleys
• 6. Finish with ridge-cap shingles and flashing